Saturday, June 21, 2008

I went shopping with Azusa yesterday at South City Mall, Kolkata’s best shopping mall. It resembles Paragon in Singapore! It was a tai-tai lifestyle. Shopped, had lunch, watched The Incredible Hulk, shopped again. I spent around S$200 (Thanks mummy, haha) on formal attire, 2 tops, and a really pretty dress. I fell in love with it! When I return, I will keep it under lock and key, away from the 2 thieving sisters! Haha=)

We went to the bar at Park Hotel at night (SPE); it was Friday night! It was there that I learnt that Indian guys are really a perverted bunch! This guy from Punjab asked me to go to his room (rm 424), and when I said I wasn’t interested, offered me around S$300. At that time, I thought it was hilarious (maybe I was alittle high), so I was just laughing away, but come to think about it, it was really rude and disrespectful of him. Apparently, many Indian guys are like that. Very direct in wanting sexual favors and very persistent in their efforts (they keep calling and smsing). The last time we went there, this guy wanted Azusa to go to his room 505. haha…now these numbers are a joke among us interns.

The gender inequality in India is very apparent; it exists in the attitudes and behaviors of people. An example is how guys in the bar just expect you to have sex with them, and think that they can buy you for the night. No subtle hinting nor efforts to develop a relationship, just a simple “come to my room tonight, room 505”. If we decline, they ask the guy (Gary) that is with us to arrange, as if he were our pimp. What makes them think that Gary can ‘arrange’ us for him when we already said no? Is it a guy-to-guy thing?

Many of the women here just seem like mothers and wives. They follow their husbands around, carrying the food, looking after the children, as if they were mere housewives instead of an individual person. People who talk to us are almost always guys, and the crowds you see outside on the train, streets or shopping centers are predominantly males! Where have all the females gone to? Speaking on this topic, I remember the Sikh Indian wedding I attended with Zoe a few days ago. It was an interesting experience, and we found out that it was a love marriage, not an arranged one=) Here are some photos:

The ceremony

The happy couple

Zoe & Me with the family
The food was great! I had 4 different kinds of curry. The people were very friendly, and we learnt much about what goes on during an Indian wedding. Hmm…I seem to have veered off topic! Back to gender inequality, I felt a little sad for the bride because she was just 19 (going on 20), and had to drop out of her first year in college to leave Kolkata for Delhi, to her husband’s place. She was sadly happy (or happily sad), while he was full of smiles.

It just seemed to me that she was giving up everything to embark on her new life as a housewife. Her individual life no longer mattered anymore; she is someone’s wife now. Of course, I wouldn’t know if this was true, but this was what I felt from what I saw. The wedding ceremony’s rituals gave signals of this inequality; how the girl follows behind the guy in the ceremony, how she is to remain very quiet and serious, how she is ‘marked’ by marriage bangles and a red spot on the forehead. Below is the groom ‘marking’ his new wife. See how happy he looks!

They were, however, very much in love, something which is very sweet=) Lucky her! Sikhs do not believe in the caste system nor dowries, so the wedding was not the traditional Indian arranged marriages aka transactions that we often read about. An interesting nugget: Many from the lowest caste (like paravans) converted to Christianity/Sikh to escape the caste system. That’s why many of the rural villages have churches!

Anyways, I have started to cook in India! Surprisingly, I have some talent in it, or so my friends say. I feel like I’m starting to become housewifey!!!! Oh no! Sometimes I think of what to cook on the way home! I’m sort of the official cook at the trainee house now. Below are some of my creations:
The first attempt when Iris was still here; Chilled sweet corn & Tuna

Macaroni soup for lunch; my diners Gary & Zoe

My first attempt at a 3-course dinner: (1) Pasta with chicken, (2) Scrambled eggs with onions, (3) Soup with sweet corn, eggs, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes (without any seasoning!)

Of course, I had some behind the scenes help from Azusa (gotta say that because she has my blog address….hi Azusa!) haha…Anyone wants to try my cooking back in Singapore?

Anyways, here is a map of the metro (MRT) in Kolkata. (Yes, my random train of thoughts…)

Here are some landmark information nuggets:
I stay near Tollygunge metro, my office is near Mahatma Ghandi Road (around 30 minutes journey). The airport is nearest to Dumdum, while the Howrah train station (to get to other parts of India) is at Esplanade.

Further down, Park street is the tourist place, with KFC, bookstores, expensive coffee cafes, clubs and hotels. You can see many tourists at Sudder Street, which is on Park street. Tata Steel is at Maidan (Sharon, the other smu student interns there), while Gary works at Jatin Das park.

Anyways, the interesting thing is how I got the picture of this map, or the reason why I got it. Haha…

The story goes like this:

Azusa, Zoe and I were at the railway office at Esplanade to get out train tickets to Varanasi & Agra postponed. We were supposed to go down to the village that day, but were delayed for 2 hours at the office (so inefficient!). So the trip was cancelled, and we were left with nothing to do. People do weird things when they are bored out of their skins. There were this 3 jap guys at the office, and I was so bored that I decided to try and ask them to lunch with us girls. It was pretty hilarious, with the girls egging me on, and me feeling shy and enthusiastic at the same time. In the end, I used the excuse of borrowing their traveler’s guide (a Japanese one which I absolutely cannot read), and taking photos of the map of Kolkata to try and start a conversation with them. Haha…it is pretty hilarious, come to think of it=) I almost took up Zoe’s idea of using her cigarettes and pretending I did not have a lighter to approach one of the guys (and then telling him that I don’t smoke, and was using it as an excuse to speak to him). Alas, he went in before I summed up enough courage, haha. It was great fun, but I didn’t get to ask them for lunch, haha. I got the map though...hahahaha....

I realized that there are so little photos of me in this post! So I’ll end with one that I took at the Indian Museum (10 rupees for locals, 150 rupees for foreigners – blatant discrimination!). The place was pretty boring, but the building was great. I stood there staring at the huge columns and white colonial walls for a while, listening to my music and resting my mind.


Formal NGO event at Park Hotel tonight! I finally get to wear my formal attire and look intimidating! See you guys after I come back from Varanasi and Agra in one week’s time!

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

8th – 16th June 2008
ChennaiMamallapuramBangaloreHampiHyderabad


This was a totally spontaneous 1 week trip (we decided to go after 2 days of strike in Kolkata). Iris was leaving for Singapore, and Gary was going to send her off in Bangalore. He did not want to take a 37hr train from Bangalore back himself, so he ‘persuaded’ us to take a train to Chennai to send Iris off to Singapore. We did it for Iris, not him=p `

Day 1 and 2: Kolkata -> Chennai
30hrs3AC train

We took a train from Howrah station, the main train terminal in Kolkata. It was a bustling place, filled with rows of yellow taxis, people jostling around and 2 lost-looking foreigners; Azusa and me.


It was a sleeper train, with air-conditioning. Surprisingly clean and comfortable. Here I am on the bed that had to bear with me for 30 hrs. We met another foreigner in the same cabin, Irena from US.

We heard that the food on the train does not really like foreigners (diarrhea!), so we had an arsenal of biscuits. Milk Bikis. I swear that I felt nauseated whenever I saw them after the 30hr train ride. Milk Bikis the whole time! The ‘chai’ (5 rupees) was pretty good though. A lot of interesting food was sold on the train! Samosas, biryani, chips…all tempting me to spend my money in exchange for calories. I ate like a pig=)! (only chips and biscuits though).




30 hours is a long time to spend alone, thinking, reading (The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy), talking. The countryside ran by, as if it were a pretty picture. It was calming for the body and mind…until I started to get fidgety and impatient. Where is Chennai Central!!!! The train was delayed for 2 hours!

Chennai is the capital of Tamil Nadu, the southern part of India. It seems like the Indians in Singapore came from this region, as they speak the same language (Tamil), have the same kind of food (Thosai etc), and have jasmine flowers in their hair!
We went to the airport (took the train) to send Iris off, and said our sad goodbyes. It was a pretty heartwarming scene, Iris and Gary=)
We stayed for a night at the Salvation Army Guesthouse (300 rupees), and here is the state of the room. 3 of us, squeezed onto the small double bed. I slept at 5am.

Day 3: Chennai -> Mamallapuram
2 hrsNon-AC bus

Mamallapuram is a world-heritage site, and it has a fantastic beach, rock carvings and scenery.


Arjuna’s Penance
We had fun making a fool of ourselves, trying to climb up numerous fixtures:
Level 1 – Short wall

Level 2 – Short tree


Level 3 – High wall! Have a look at the process, haha… It was really fun, with Indians laughing at us, and trying to get up to take a photo with us=p


The beach was really beautiful…we had a swim in it, and stayed the night at Hotel Laskmi! We got cheated by the boss…paid 400 rupees when it should only cost around 200 rupees.

Day 4: Mamallapuram -> Chennai -> Bangalore -> Hampi
2hrsNon-AC bus
5hrsNon-AC train
9.5hrsNon-AC train

It was a mad rush in Chennai because MR GARY lost our tickets to Bangalore! As soon as we reached Chennai, we rushed to Chennai Central to get our replacement tickets. It got it 5 minutes before the train left. Very exciting…we ran like mad animals. Haha…


Azusa, Me and Gary in the train to Bangalore. Notice the banana…haha=p It was the first non-AC train we took. It was pretty comfortable, though warm. Many people pass through trying to sell us torches, food, newspapers, beggars begging for money.


Us in the non-AC train to Hampi (Hospet). We were right beside the toilets, and boy did it stink…throughout the night. No blankets nor pillows! A non-AC ride is ½ the price of an AC one. Interestingly, people cannot believe that we would want non-AC tickets. The guy at the train station said: “non-AC?” 3 times before giving me my ticket. I’m a poor student!

Day 5 and 6: Hampi!!!!

This is the best, most fantastic place I’ve ever been. It was so…well, I will let the photos speak for themselves. Hampi (part of Karnataka), another World Heritage Site, is a ruin of the 15th century city of Vijayanagar. Time seems to have stopped at this place. We rented bicycles the first day, and cycled through the ruins and giant granite boulders.





Wherever we went, people wanted to take photos and shake our hands. Everyone was so friendly! With the wind billowing in my hair, I smiled till my jaws hurt. It was really a magical place.
Cute uncle!

Well, everyone except maybe this little girl..haha..

While riding, we chanced upon a shelter built right at the top of huge granite boulders. Without thinking much about safety, we embarked on a trekking cum rock-climbing adventure!


We tried our very best, but were prevented from going further up here. I tried, believe me, but without rock climbing gear, it was near impossible! Nevertheless, we had great moments on the boulders. Staring out into the great expanse, as if we were looking down at our little kingdom; like pride rock in the Lion King!
Though it doesn’t look like it, it was a pretty dangerous climb. Look at Gary!

And what I would have to do if he fell down…Anyways, we came down tanned, fit, and entirely proud of ourselves.



The next morning, we visited the Virupaksha Temple, and got a blessing from the cute elephant Laskmi (1 rupee).


We then decided to visit the village of Anegundi (actually, I decided it), across the river from Hampi. We trekked across nature’s wonders! Here I am with the traveler’s bible – Lonely Planet.

Great scenes on the way to the village! The round thing in the picture is the type of transport they take to cross the river.


Us in the so-called ‘boat’. My thighs ached from squatting…


The village was a charming one, with little cars on the road. We made a fool of ourselves, monkey-ing on the empty road and taking photos!
This little girl was elated at receiving a pen from Gary. Everywhere we went, the children wanted school pens! Advice to future travelers: Bring an arsenal of pens to give away! We were so sad that we didn’t have pens to give the kids.
The kids in the village were really friendly, and they all wanted their photos taken! I took so many photos that my battery died! But their amusement at themselves in the photos were well worth it=)
The result of 2 days in Hampi. Bruises and a well of very happy memories=)

Day 7: Hampi -> Hyderabad
10hrsNon-AC bus

We took a night bus from Hampi (Hospet) to Hyderabad. 300 rupees, and it was the most dangerous roller-coaster ride I ever took; one without safety mechanisms. The bus driver drove like he was drunk and holding his pee in the same time. Reckless speed demon on the bumpy road. Imagine driving fast right into a hump in Singapore – felt like that the whole night. The horns, flashing lights, people shouting out in pain whenever their heads hit the railings.

Here I was, trying to get some sleep in an extremely unglamorous position; captured down thanks to Azusa.!

We reached Hyderabad 1.5 hrs before time, at around 5am. Haha…I was too relieved to be alive and kicking that I did not take any photos at the bus terminal. We checked into a slightly more expensive hotel (910 rupees) due to a matter of principal. I refused to pay 600 rupees for a dingy place just because the owner knew that all the other budget hotels were full. So we got a nice room at Hotel Rajmata, with a TV!

Indian attire. I’m turning native!

Hyderabad (part of Andhra Pradesh) was seriously…the most boring stop of the tour. I think that I’m not really a fan of cities, the pollution and crowd. Cities are Gary’s thing…Azusa and I are the un-city people. We were only in Hyderabad for a day because we couldn’t get tickets back to Kolkata in time.
Look at how happy Gary was being in the city…(note the traveler’s bible again)
Here is a photo of the Charminar, and the messy pavements. I love the mess though! There was nothing much to do in the city, but the food was good…Hyderabad is known for its Biryani!
Food at Hotel Shadab. It came to only about 300 rupees per person! Vegetable curry, mutton biryani, tandoori chicken, special lassie (yogurt). The bible again!
Azusa and I woke up early the next morning to visit the Ananda Buddha Vihara while Gary slept (the lazy guy). We wanted to try the 1 hour meditation session at 6am, but when we got there, we realized that on Sunday, the session was at 8am! Lonely planet failed us! So we just took a few photos of the beautiful place atop a small hill, overlooking the city. Had a fight with the auto-rickshaw driver over the price (2nd fight in Hyderabad), but all is cool.

Day 8: Hyderabad -> Kolkata
30hrs3AC train


The train back wasn’t as clean as the train from Kolkata, but it was easier to bear. For one, we bought REAL food for the first day. Haha…I had my book, my music, Azusa and Gary=)..

Back in Kolkata for now, with uneven colored feet and bodies.

Stay tuned for my next trip out to Varanasi and Agra next week! (Am I here to work????)